It looks like you are in for a fun time James, well done
You have done the right thing engaging the MGE BBS as all of us there are eInDtIhOuTsSiasts and will willingly engage with you. Some of us are really good, some of us try the patience of saints or sinners
All of us love the Spridgets we have lavished so much effort and energy on
And I wish I'd had this much car to start with at the beginning
I've owned my 1964 Mark 2 Midget for over 30 years and have just started its second restoration, aiming to have it ready for the 2013 Fougeres Rally http://www.rallye-fougeres.org
Well finally got round to reading your blog Mr Paul, and while it looks daughting it also looks a lot of fun! I'll be keeping an eye to see how she progresses. BTW I have a polishing kit if you want to use it.
You're not mad... or we both are. I'm restoring my own 1965 Midget that has the same "issues" with complete and utter lack of non-rusted sheetmetal that you appear to be facing. I've gotten as far as fitting the driver's side floorpan, rebuilding the footwell, replacing the sill, and replacing the battery tray.
If I may offer advice... a good MIG welder with gas, and lots and lots of practice using it, is essential. Test fit and test fit and test fit before you weld. take lots of pictures before you make changes. It looks like you're off on the right foot and having one heck of an adventure!
I'm shutting down for the summer... too hot here to work. :) Keep us all posted!
I read through your whole blog in one sitting as I am going today to look at a 1963 MG Midget I am considering for restoration. My wife was giving me the "Have you lost your mind?" look. I will definitely keep following your progress.
Hi Rob, Thank you for taking the (what must have been a considerable amount of) time to read my blog! I hope it has given you some inspiration. Without this blog I might have given up by now, just because you can so easily lose focus. I know that this will be a long project that I can dip in and out from. But if you are planning to restore an MG for the experience then I would go for it. If you want to restore one because you'd like to drive a finished one around, then just buy a good one! From my experience get the best one that you can for your budget. Good luck James
Great to see other people love to work on Midget's. I will start restoring my 72 Midget in september. I wonder what problems i am heading for, but i know most will be good fun. At least it is much more fun than watching the tele. Thank you for the blog, it gave me many good idea's for the future. Jos Weert, The Netherlands
Hi, as i told you before I would start my own project in September. I could not wait and started in August. I did see your project is a bit more work than mine. But you will never know what misery I will discover the coming weeks and months. You inspired me to start my own blog so you are invited to make a visit there. Good luck with your restauration, I will keep following your blog.
To be to the point the simplest answer is yes, as it is only to be expected.
The longer version is that the chassis was out of shape before I had started to remove rusted panels and a previous owner had badly tried to repair the rust problems which resulted in the doors not fitting.
The only way to get the car square again was to remove the patch work and rusted panels and start again. I am fairly sure that working from the rear suspension mounts forwards and working round the doors will produce the required end result.
Guess you'll have to keep reading to find out if I'm right!
James, I find myself at a critical point in my restoration, photo 20 on your gallery 2 is where I'm at. Have you any useful advice about important alignments etc before I start welding? Regards Damo.
Thank you for following my blog and posting your question.
I am actually at the same point right now. That photo was taken many months ago when I was just looking to see how the panels lined up. Since then I have done major work on the rear bulk head and now the footwell end panel.
Each example will be different, for example have you have to replace the crossmember, if not then this will give you a good starting point for the inner sill.
If the rear bulk head is still intact then the inner sill should sit comfortably on that and fit over the jacking point on the crossmember and line up with the footwell end panel.
The footwell side panel has a lip to where the inner sill will sit which has a curve on it that needs to finish flush. Also the side panel needs to fit tight against the wheel arch.
The best advice is to have the door in place before you do any welding as that is effectively what you are building the car around. Try a few small welds to see how it is all fitting together.
Good luck and please feel free to ask any further questions.
Hello James; I have just found your Blog and I must congratulate you on a fine job you have been making of your restoration. I've just started on a similar restoration of a Frogeye here in Canada and I can appreciate the hard work that has gone into your project. I was wondering however how you have managed with no visible bracing of the body. Most restorations I have seen have had some bracing support to stop sagging or twisting while chunks of the body have been removed. Have you had any problems in this area? Cheers, .....Gareth
The main reasoning for not supporting the chassis was because when I bought the Midget the doors didn't fit properly as a prior owner had tried to repair the chassis and had not done a proper job! The car had also taken a slight hit on the back wing. So I made the decision to rebuild the car around the doors and I am getting close to that point where measurements are very, very important!!
If you are restoring a Frogeye and most of it looks to line up properly then I would definitely advise welding some steal tubing to support the chassis.
Thanks for your response James. Yes, I have added some tubing and angle iron to hopefully brace the body. Your photos have been helpful in figuring out how things go together. I'm about to remove the drivers sill so hopefully things will remain rigid. Cheers, ...Gareth
I am also restoring a 1965 Midget. I've been working on mine on and off since 2008 and got serious the past couple of years. I found your blog and I am amazed at how similar our efforts have been. I'm not sure if my car was better or worse than yours was when you started, but it was pretty far gone in much the same ways as yours.
I like the idea of the blog, so I have started my own at midget.strublic.net. I hope you appreciate that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, because I like the look of yours...
There were a few years where I thought I'd never get around to it or that I'd never get this far, but I haven't given up. I hope you finish yours soon now that you're settled in.
Hi Steve, thank you for reading my blog! I think it is fantastic to see so many people who don't want to forget what was so great about these classic cars and the more that can be restored for future generations the better. What better why than to share it on the internet as that is where my boys seem to send most of their spare time. I have read your blog tonight and they are very similar in terms of their condition...rusty! You seem to have done really well though and I am sure I'll learn some useful tips from your experience. All the best James
About 17 years ago I bought a 1965 MG Midget (dark BRG, originally tartan red). Some years almost nothing happened (due all kinds of reasons and sometimes excuses...). Some years I was quite productive....It will probably become known als TLRPIH (The Longest Resto Project In History :-) LOL
Now the kids have grown up, I'm dedicated to complete my project within 3-5 years ;-)
The LH repairs are almost completed (repaired and replaced). So, now I'm working on the RH side. A-post repair ongoing (sill repair completed), RH floorplan scheduled for Oct-Jan.
Hey James, i’m a little stuck on my rear wheel arch, where the inner arch meets the heel kick board there’s some kind of recess - a no mans land, if I set you some pictures; could you sh d some light on it for me?
Hi Alex, Yes of course, I'll try my best to help you. You could have a look at these posts as well, but send me some of the photos: jamespaul23@hotmail.co.uk https://1965mgmidgetrestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/wheel-arch-repairs-continued.html
Your restoration project and blog are an inspiration to me. Keep pushing through. I know how much of an emotional roller coaster this process can be. From the proud moments of smithing a complicated patch panel, producing some really nice textbook welds, to the times when you think you’ve finished something only to find that you should have measured twice or considered that other dimension, or the horror of seeing your rust converter paint seep through a seam weld. Ouch! And that other emotion - loneliness. My wife is very patient.
And to help ‘balluhknaller’ feel better, I too have had my project car on ice due to a slew of really good reasons and excuses,. With my kids out of nest now, I’ve finally managed to get my first year in on restoring my 1967 Sprite. It’s been 33 years (not 17). Embarrassing.
So keep at it! You have a lot to show thus far - you’ll pull through. I can’t wait to see your results.
I’ve reached a point where I’m kind of stuck and am just mentally fatigued. Time to step away and recharge. So I’m taking a moment to address some honey-do projects, do a bit of mind-melding with fellow restorers, research, order parts, and maybe start my own blog. (also a good time to magnet sweep the garage, account for my tools, and wash my shop clothes)
Congratulations! Really great job and so helpful to see all of the detailed photo's. Thank you for sharing. Reminds me of restoring my MG and inspires me to do another.
I am rebuilding my other half's 1974 RWA at the moment, your blog is proving very useful as I am having many of the same bodywork issues that you had. A great source for inspiration and knowledge. Keep it up!! Simon
Hi james, I just wanted to leave a note to say how much I'm enjoying reading your blog, and how useful your photos are. I have a 71 midget and am slowly trying to get it back together, and your blog is such a help. All the best,
Hi John, Thank you for your comments. It is good to know this blog has helped others as well. Good luck with your restoration. Feel free to ask any questions. All the best James
Hi James I am wondering what sort of problems you had uninstalling the rear springs - in particular the front brackets with two up and two down bolts - and how you overcame them. I'm wishing to swop the rear springs over to help correct the bachelor lean and thought your extensive blog might give me details. Having gone through most of the blog, I was unable to find any mention of this.
Hi Tony, Thank you for your message. Your right I didn't really create a specific section on removing them. The four bolts did eventually undo from what I remember. Was 9 years ago now! If you are struggling to undo the bolt then you should give them a good spray with penetrating fluid top and bottom and leave them for a few hours. If that doesn't shift them then you'll need to heat them up with a blow torch for a few minutes. The heat will expand the metal and should break the rust. I have recently just installed two new rear springs on mine and they were really tight to fit. So makes sense to suggest they will be hard to undo. Sort of what you want on rear springs! Let me know if this helps or if you have any other questions. Thanks James
Hi Tony, Thinking about this again. It is a big job to remove the rear springs. You need to remove the wheels and jack up the car in a very stable way. You then need to have supports on the axle so that you can control the height of the axle as you remove and install the new spring. You don't want to rely on the axle check straps. It might be worth checking if the rear mounts are set up correctly. It is possible that they have moved which is cause the lean as you describe. Certainly easier to fix that before removing the whole spring. Also consider replacing the bushes as well in case they have failed. Although that is really part of the same job when replacing a spring. Good luck with it James
I’m fully restoring a Mk4 sprite (my first restoration) and am having problems with insufficient door gaps. I’ve removed the drivers A post but can’t weld this until I got the gaps sorted. Wouldn’t mind some advise if that’s ok. Cheers Rob
Hi James I’ve got a mk4 Sprite undergoing a full restoration (my first). I’m concerned as to why I’ve got very little door gaps on drivers side and am unsure what to do. Would really appreciate your thoughts? Regards Rob
Hi Rob, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Getting the door gaps are really difficult I am sorry to say. But as you have yet to weld in the A-post you do have a chance. I'm wondering if you have replaced your sills as well. When you replace your sills it is important to brace the door gaps, but even then you can still get movement in the chassis which results in the door gaps getting small and uneven. Either way when you weld in the A-post you need to make sure it is welded as far forward as you can whilst keeping everything else in line. Not easy, just keep test fitting again and again and try to use wedges to hold the door in place or as best as you can get it whilst you weld the A post in. If after that the only way to improve the door gaps, assuming the adjustments on the hinge and striker plate don't help enough, then you are left with filing down the edges of the door or the A & B post to create the gap you need. That is what I ended up doing. Since mine has just come back from paint I've yet to refit the door with the final paint coat on so am very nervous about if the gap is ok. I'll find out in a week or so. But good luck!
Thanks for all your thoughts, James. In fact I've already had the back axle off to replace a diff and clean the axle of broken teeth! That also gave me the oppertunity to replace wheel bearings and seals, replace or refresh rear brakes and handbrake and fit poly bushes. The front spring bushes seemed okay so I didn't attemped to dismantle the front brackets! If I had thought of swopping the springs round at the time it would of course only involved the front brackets!! At least I know what is involved - so maybe this summer.
Good to meet you earlier and thanks for the panels. Just having a quick gander through your rebuild before I go back outside to start getting mine ready for renovation, but will have a good read through later this week. Looks some handy info, especially on the body construction under different outer panels. I've got a thread of mine here: https://autoshite.com/topic/47789-1968-mg-midget-back-home/
Hi James I have been following your restoration with great interest. I have a 1962 Midget and in the process of restoring it. I have nearly completed one side and I am at the rear end rear wheel arch area at the moment. I am patching the boot floor and replacing the 'rear boot to rear wing' section and 'rear wheel arch to boot' with panels bought from Ashley Hinton and Moss. The rear valance is not good either and noted your repair to this area with interest - you make it look easy though! It's not clear on your photos exactly how you fitted the complex looking panel - I think it's called the 'rear boot to rear wing'. I am assuming that the rear of the panel (at right angles) forms part of the new boot floor which joins to the rear valance? One site I looked at wrapped the new repair floor panel around this part,which doubles the thickness in that area. (Birth of a racecar site). I also noted that you made up some repair panels by joining pieces together to form the complex shape - easier than than trying to bend and shape one piece, good idea. I am using a rotisserie and have the car at 90 deg at the moment. I can also see the other side inner wheel arch and a previous owner had cut out part of the inside wheel arch and filled the gap with silicone - the side I am working on is the same! I am therefore trying to make a patch panel to replace the piece that's been cut out, not easy. The car was covered in underseal and hid a multitude of patchwork and bodge jobs including 3 floor panels (one was the original). It's turned out to be a much bigger job than I originally thought - started so I will finish. Look forward to you comments.
Hi Tony, Thank you for reading my blog. I'm not sure if you are asking about where the boot floor meets the bottom of the rear valance or the boot floor extension panels that link the boot floor to the rear wing by wrapping around the rear wheel arch. If you look at Moss they have a break down of all the panels which might help you. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/body-chassis/body-panels But come back to me. Thanks James
Hi again James Not sure how to reply as Tony Lane so I am anon! Thanks for replying. The panel I was talking about (or trying to) is called 'Rear boot floor to rear wing' and is sort of 'L' shaped. I have studied your photos (numbers: 413,414,442,443,444 and a few more) again and still not 100% sure how you connected this panel to the floor. It appears that the valance wraps around it on one photo. Did you wrap the boot floor around it as well? At the moment I have it positioned on a boot floor repair panel I have made (the original one was completly rotten - even the flange that the new panel is supposed to connect to) but not sure if I should make the boot repair panel go around it at the rear and then the valance connects to the new floor repair. Can I attach photos to this blog? I do not think I am making myself very clear. Before I make the final welds I have to try and repair the joint where the two halves of the wing/valance join (just below the area where the rear lights fit) on the inside of the car.The panel that wraps around the rear of the wheel arch will help but the two flanges inside are incomplete and need some repairs. I will have a look at your photos again and see if you have made any repairs here and study the floor/wing/valance photos again to see if I can understand what you have done. Sorry for not being clear - it's difficult to describe exactly what I am repairing. Have you seen a yooutube site called 'birth of a racecar'? There is one episode where he fits the panel I am talking about. Regards Tony
Hi Tony, I think you are referring to the boot floor extension panel. The best photos that show how this panel connects to the floor is between 450 and 462. Both the floor and the extension panel have a flange that face each other. These are welded together. The short part of the L panel does then wrap around the floor and brings together the floor and the rear valance. I hope that helps you. James
Hi James Thanks for your comments. Yes, I am referring to the 'boot floor extension panel' as you say. Unfortunately the flange on my floor had completely rotted away and part of the floor itself all around it. I have made a new floor panel but didn't add a flange, (made a note of where it was situated), I was going to flatten the flange on the extension panel and weld it to the new floor patch with plug welds. After looking at your photographs, the floor goes over the extension panel and the valance fits on the other side sandwiching the extension panel, yes? I think I will start again and make a new floor repair panel and maybe even add a flange to it and fix the extension panel to the new flange. I am also fitting the external repair that goes from one side to the other and attaches to the extension panel (butt welding this to the existing rear wing area) - all the parts have to come together before I start with the welder. Thanks again - will keep you posted on progress. If you think of any other things I should be doing please let me know. Regards Tony
Replying as Anonymous again! Hi again James Just a few more questions that have occurred to me since my last post to you (the posts take ages before they are published). You repaired the valance area before you tackled the boot floor extension and boot floor itself I believe? What product did you use to clean the gearbox and bell housing (stood in your driveway), it produced a fantastic result?
Hi James, I just finished reading your blog from start to finish (For future record I reached "Doors"!). It's inspired me to restore my own Midget which I was initially going to have patched up but total resto is the realistic solution. I have many of the same problems so thank you so much for posting all this and if I manage to document my experience I will let you know!
Hi again James.C Contacting you as Anonymous again. I still refer to your project for ideas and inspiration when I get stuck on something - I usually check to see if you have encountered the same problems that I have. I have just been repairing the front of my bonnet using a similar technique to yourself, what a rave. I used two bonnets and made one reasonable one from the two. I have refitted the brake and clutch pedal box and have a large spring that needs fitting to the clutch pedal 'somewhere'. I cannot see where it fits on the pedal or the bodywork. I checked to see what you did and there doesn't seem to be a spring fitted - did you have one? It must fit somewhere because I took it off and placed it with the other clutch parts in a plastic bag!! Look forward to hearing from you. Regards Tony Lane
Hi Tony, Thanks for reading my blog. Pleased it helps you with your project. The only spring for the clutch pedal that I can remember is the one in the pedal box. How big is it?
It looks like you are in for a fun time James, well done
ReplyDeleteYou have done the right thing engaging the MGE BBS as all of us there are eInDtIhOuTsSiasts and will willingly engage with you. Some of us are really good, some of us try the patience of saints or sinners
All of us love the Spridgets we have lavished so much effort and energy on
And I wish I'd had this much car to start with at the beginning
Best of luck and good wishes
bill sgpm
been there; done that
ReplyDeletedon't give up even when you're convinced that the only sensible course of action is to torch the whole lot.
and yes: there is the wisdom of Solomon on the BBS
albeit distributed amongst many brains!
keep posting!
Dave
A great site for a worthwhile project!
ReplyDeleteI've owned my 1964 Mark 2 Midget for over 30 years and have just started its second restoration, aiming to have it ready for the 2013 Fougeres Rally http://www.rallye-fougeres.org
Good luck with your restoration!
Steve
Have a look at my website for interest,
ReplyDeletewww.mgmidget.moonfruit.com
I Am just starting out!
Ian
Well finally got round to reading your blog Mr Paul, and while it looks daughting it also looks a lot of fun! I'll be keeping an eye to see how she progresses. BTW I have a polishing kit if you want to use it.
ReplyDeleteEnjoy !
Regards,
Glenn M.
You're not mad... or we both are. I'm restoring my own 1965 Midget that has the same "issues" with complete and utter lack of non-rusted sheetmetal that you appear to be facing. I've gotten as far as fitting the driver's side floorpan, rebuilding the footwell, replacing the sill, and replacing the battery tray.
ReplyDeleteIf I may offer advice... a good MIG welder with gas, and lots and lots of practice using it, is essential. Test fit and test fit and test fit before you weld. take lots of pictures before you make changes. It looks like you're off on the right foot and having one heck of an adventure!
I'm shutting down for the summer... too hot here to work. :) Keep us all posted!
MWAHAHAHA
Steve Strublic
Phoenix, AZ
I read through your whole blog in one sitting as I am going today to look at a 1963 MG Midget I am considering for restoration. My wife was giving me the "Have you lost your mind?" look. I will definitely keep following your progress.
ReplyDeleteHi Rob,
DeleteThank you for taking the (what must have been a considerable amount of) time to read my blog! I hope it has given you some inspiration. Without this blog I might have given up by now, just because you can so easily lose focus. I know that this will be a long project that I can dip in and out from. But if you are planning to restore an MG for the experience then I would go for it. If you want to restore one because you'd like to drive a finished one around, then just buy a good one! From my experience get the best one that you can for your budget.
Good luck
James
Great to see other people love to work on Midget's.
ReplyDeleteI will start restoring my 72 Midget in september.
I wonder what problems i am heading for, but i know most will be good fun.
At least it is much more fun than watching the tele.
Thank you for the blog, it gave me many good idea's for the future.
Jos
Weert, The Netherlands
Hi Jos,
ReplyDeleteGlad you enjoy reading my blog. Good luck with your restoration! I hope it goes smoother than mine!!
Kind regards
James
Hi, as i told you before I would start my own project in September.
ReplyDeleteI could not wait and started in August. I did see your project is a bit more work than mine. But you will never know what misery I will discover the coming weeks and months.
You inspired me to start my own blog so you are invited to make a visit there.
Good luck with your restauration, I will keep following your blog.
Hi Jos,
DeleteGood to here from you. Feel free to ask any questions if you need help.
If you post your blog here I can add it to the others!
Take care
James
no worries, I found it! http://midgetproject.blogspot.co.uk/
DeleteHi. Have you had any issues with the shell twisting/sagging given the amount of structure you have had to remove?
ReplyDeleteHi Damo,
ReplyDeleteThank you for reading my blog.
To be to the point the simplest answer is yes, as it is only to be expected.
The longer version is that the chassis was out of shape before I had started to remove rusted panels and a previous owner had badly tried to repair the rust problems which resulted in the doors not fitting.
The only way to get the car square again was to remove the patch work and rusted panels and start again. I am fairly sure that working from the rear suspension mounts forwards and working round the doors will produce the required end result.
Guess you'll have to keep reading to find out if I'm right!
Kind regards
James
James, I find myself at a critical point in my restoration, photo 20 on your gallery 2 is where I'm at. Have you any useful advice about important alignments etc before I start welding? Regards Damo.
ReplyDeleteHi Damo,
ReplyDeleteThank you for following my blog and posting your question.
I am actually at the same point right now. That photo was taken many months ago when I was just looking to see how the panels lined up. Since then I have done major work on the rear bulk head and now the footwell end panel.
Each example will be different, for example have you have to replace the crossmember, if not then this will give you a good starting point for the inner sill.
If the rear bulk head is still intact then the inner sill should sit comfortably on that and fit over the jacking point on the crossmember and line up with the footwell end panel.
The footwell side panel has a lip to where the inner sill will sit which has a curve on it that needs to finish flush. Also the side panel needs to fit tight against the wheel arch.
The best advice is to have the door in place before you do any welding as that is effectively what you are building the car around. Try a few small welds to see how it is all fitting together.
Good luck and please feel free to ask any further questions.
Kind regards
James
James, have you done any more work recently?
ReplyDeleteDamian.
Hi Damo,
DeleteSorry for the delay. I am in the process of buying a new house which has it's own double garage! As soon as I have moved, work will begin again!!
Hello James; I have just found your Blog and I must congratulate you on a fine job you have been making of your restoration. I've just started on a similar restoration of a Frogeye here in Canada and I can appreciate the hard work that has gone into your project. I was wondering however how you have managed with no visible bracing of the body. Most restorations I have seen have had some bracing support to stop sagging or twisting while chunks of the body have been removed. Have you had any problems in this area? Cheers, .....Gareth
ReplyDeleteHi Gareth,
ReplyDeleteThank you for reading my blog!
The main reasoning for not supporting the chassis was because when I bought the Midget the doors didn't fit properly as a prior owner had tried to repair the chassis and had not done a proper job! The car had also taken a slight hit on the back wing. So I made the decision to rebuild the car around the doors and I am getting close to that point where measurements are very, very important!!
If you are restoring a Frogeye and most of it looks to line up properly then I would definitely advise welding some steal tubing to support the chassis.
Good luck with your project.
Kind regards
James
Thanks for your response James. Yes, I have added some tubing and angle iron to hopefully brace the body. Your photos have been helpful in figuring out how things go together. I'm about to remove the drivers sill so hopefully things will remain rigid. Cheers, ...Gareth
ReplyDeleteHi James,
ReplyDeleteI am also restoring a 1965 Midget. I've been working on mine on and off since 2008 and got serious the past couple of years. I found your blog and I am amazed at how similar our efforts have been. I'm not sure if my car was better or worse than yours was when you started, but it was pretty far gone in much the same ways as yours.
I like the idea of the blog, so I have started my own at midget.strublic.net. I hope you appreciate that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, because I like the look of yours...
There were a few years where I thought I'd never get around to it or that I'd never get this far, but I haven't given up. I hope you finish yours soon now that you're settled in.
Best,
Steve
Hi Steve, thank you for reading my blog! I think it is fantastic to see so many people who don't want to forget what was so great about these classic cars and the more that can be restored for future generations the better. What better why than to share it on the internet as that is where my boys seem to send most of their spare time.
DeleteI have read your blog tonight and they are very similar in terms of their condition...rusty! You seem to have done really well though and I am sure I'll learn some useful tips from your experience.
All the best
James
Hi James,
ReplyDeleteAbout 17 years ago I bought a 1965 MG Midget (dark BRG, originally tartan red). Some years almost nothing happened (due all kinds of reasons and sometimes excuses...). Some years I was quite productive....It will probably become known als TLRPIH (The Longest Resto Project In History :-) LOL
Now the kids have grown up, I'm dedicated to complete my project within 3-5 years ;-)
The LH repairs are almost completed (repaired and replaced). So, now I'm working on the RH side. A-post repair ongoing (sill repair completed), RH floorplan scheduled for Oct-Jan.
Keep on going!
Haven't seen anything new from you in a while... hope all is well!
ReplyDeleteSteve
Yes all good and I'm back on it!!
DeleteHey James, i’m a little stuck on my rear wheel arch, where the inner arch meets the heel kick board there’s some kind of recess - a no mans land, if I set you some pictures; could you sh d some light on it for me?
ReplyDeleteThanks! Keep up the good work!
Hi Alex, Yes of course, I'll try my best to help you. You could have a look at these posts as well, but send me some of the photos: jamespaul23@hotmail.co.uk
Deletehttps://1965mgmidgetrestoration.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/wheel-arch-repairs-continued.html
Hello James,
ReplyDeleteYour restoration project and blog are an inspiration to me. Keep pushing through. I know how much of an emotional roller coaster this process can be. From the proud moments of smithing a complicated patch panel, producing some really nice textbook welds, to the times when you think you’ve finished something only to find that you should have measured twice or considered that other dimension, or the horror of seeing your rust converter paint seep through a seam weld. Ouch! And that other emotion - loneliness. My wife is very patient.
And to help ‘balluhknaller’ feel better, I too have had my project car on ice due to a slew of really good reasons and excuses,. With my kids out of nest now, I’ve finally managed to get my first year in on restoring my 1967 Sprite. It’s been 33 years (not 17). Embarrassing.
So keep at it! You have a lot to show thus far - you’ll pull through. I can’t wait to see your results.
I’ve reached a point where I’m kind of stuck and am just mentally fatigued. Time to step away and recharge. So I’m taking a moment to address some honey-do projects, do a bit of mind-melding with fellow restorers, research, order parts, and maybe start my own blog. (also a good time to magnet sweep the garage, account for my tools, and wash my shop clothes)
Thanks for all the photos and info.
Steve Schmidt
Congratulations! Really great job and so helpful to see all of the detailed photo's. Thank you for sharing. Reminds me of restoring my MG and inspires me to do another.
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for your kind comments. I'm glad you enjoyed reading the blog. Not sure I'll do another!
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI am rebuilding my other half's 1974 RWA at the moment, your blog is proving very useful as I am having many of the same bodywork issues that you had. A great source for inspiration and knowledge. Keep it up!! Simon
Hi Simon, Thanks for your message. Good luck with your project. If you need any help just let me know. James
ReplyDeleteHi james, I just wanted to leave a note to say how much I'm enjoying reading your blog, and how useful your photos are. I have a 71 midget and am slowly trying to get it back together, and your blog is such a help.
ReplyDeleteAll the best,
John
Hi John,
ReplyDeleteThank you for your comments. It is good to know this blog has helped others as well.
Good luck with your restoration. Feel free to ask any questions.
All the best
James
Hi James. Keep up the good work. I just started to restore my1970 Midget. Your blog is giving me excellent advice. Please do not stop. Thank you
ReplyDeleteHi James
ReplyDeleteI am wondering what sort of problems you had uninstalling the rear springs - in particular the front brackets with two up and two down bolts - and how you overcame them.
I'm wishing to swop the rear springs over to help correct the bachelor lean and thought your extensive blog might give me details. Having gone through most of the blog, I was unable to find any mention of this.
Super blog - and a quality restoration
Regards
Tony
Hi Tony,
ReplyDeleteThank you for your message.
Your right I didn't really create a specific section on removing them. The four bolts did eventually undo from what I remember. Was 9 years ago now!
If you are struggling to undo the bolt then you should give them a good spray with penetrating fluid top and bottom and leave them for a few hours. If that doesn't shift them then you'll need to heat them up with a blow torch for a few minutes. The heat will expand the metal and should break the rust.
I have recently just installed two new rear springs on mine and they were really tight to fit. So makes sense to suggest they will be hard to undo. Sort of what you want on rear springs!
Let me know if this helps or if you have any other questions.
Thanks
James
Hi Tony,
DeleteThinking about this again. It is a big job to remove the rear springs. You need to remove the wheels and jack up the car in a very stable way. You then need to have supports on the axle so that you can control the height of the axle as you remove and install the new spring. You don't want to rely on the axle check straps.
It might be worth checking if the rear mounts are set up correctly. It is possible that they have moved which is cause the lean as you describe. Certainly easier to fix that before removing the whole spring.
Also consider replacing the bushes as well in case they have failed. Although that is really part of the same job when replacing a spring.
Good luck with it
James
Hi James
DeleteI’m fully restoring a Mk4 sprite (my first restoration) and am having problems with insufficient door gaps. I’ve removed the drivers A post but can’t weld this until I got the gaps sorted. Wouldn’t mind some advise if that’s ok.
Cheers
Rob
Hi James
DeleteI’ve got a mk4 Sprite undergoing a full restoration (my first). I’m concerned as to why I’ve got very little door gaps on drivers side and am unsure what to do. Would really appreciate your thoughts?
Regards
Rob
Hi Rob,
DeleteSorry for the delay in getting back to you.
Getting the door gaps are really difficult I am sorry to say. But as you have yet to weld in the A-post you do have a chance.
I'm wondering if you have replaced your sills as well. When you replace your sills it is important to brace the door gaps, but even then you can still get movement in the chassis which results in the door gaps getting small and uneven.
Either way when you weld in the A-post you need to make sure it is welded as far forward as you can whilst keeping everything else in line. Not easy, just keep test fitting again and again and try to use wedges to hold the door in place or as best as you can get it whilst you weld the A post in.
If after that the only way to improve the door gaps, assuming the adjustments on the hinge and striker plate don't help enough, then you are left with filing down the edges of the door or the A & B post to create the gap you need. That is what I ended up doing.
Since mine has just come back from paint I've yet to refit the door with the final paint coat on so am very nervous about if the gap is ok. I'll find out in a week or so. But good luck!
Thanks for all your thoughts, James. In fact I've already had the back axle off to replace a diff and clean the axle of broken teeth! That also gave me the oppertunity to replace wheel bearings and seals, replace or refresh rear brakes and handbrake and fit poly bushes. The front spring bushes seemed okay so I didn't attemped to dismantle the front brackets!
ReplyDeleteIf I had thought of swopping the springs round at the time it would of course only involved the front brackets!!
At least I know what is involved - so maybe this summer.
Regards
Tony
I have a 1963 Midget, the style with the door handles INSIDE the door and the sliding windows. Is it worth rebuilding ?
ReplyDelete1984VoyagerDC@gmail.com
Always! early models are getting rarer and more valuable!
DeleteGood to meet you earlier and thanks for the panels. Just having a quick gander through your rebuild before I go back outside to start getting mine ready for renovation, but will have a good read through later this week. Looks some handy info, especially on the body construction under different outer panels.
ReplyDeleteI've got a thread of mine here:
https://autoshite.com/topic/47789-1968-mg-midget-back-home/
Cheers,
Si
Hi James
ReplyDeleteI have been following your restoration with great interest. I have a 1962 Midget and in the process of restoring it. I have nearly completed one side and I am at the rear end rear wheel arch area at the moment. I am patching the boot floor and replacing the 'rear boot to rear wing' section and 'rear wheel arch to boot' with panels bought from Ashley Hinton and Moss. The rear valance is not good either and noted your repair to this area with interest - you make it look easy though! It's not clear on your photos exactly how you fitted the complex looking panel - I think it's called the 'rear boot to rear wing'. I am assuming that the rear of the panel (at right angles) forms part of the new boot floor which joins to the rear valance? One site I looked at wrapped the new repair floor panel around this part,which doubles the thickness in that area. (Birth of a racecar site). I also noted that you made up some repair panels by joining pieces together to form the complex shape - easier than than trying to bend and shape one piece, good idea. I am using a rotisserie and have the car at 90 deg at the moment. I can also see the other side inner wheel arch and a previous owner had cut out part of the inside wheel arch and filled the gap with silicone - the side I am working on is the same! I am therefore trying to make a patch panel to replace the piece that's been cut out, not easy. The car was covered in underseal and hid a multitude of patchwork and bodge jobs including 3 floor panels (one was the original). It's turned out to be a much bigger job than I originally thought - started so I will finish. Look forward to you comments.
Hi Tony,
DeleteThank you for reading my blog.
I'm not sure if you are asking about where the boot floor meets the bottom of the rear valance or the boot floor extension panels that link the boot floor to the rear wing by wrapping around the rear wheel arch.
If you look at Moss they have a break down of all the panels which might help you.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/body-chassis/body-panels
But come back to me.
Thanks
James
Hi again James
ReplyDeleteNot sure how to reply as Tony Lane so I am anon!
Thanks for replying. The panel I was talking about (or trying to) is called 'Rear boot floor to rear wing' and is sort of 'L' shaped. I have studied your photos (numbers: 413,414,442,443,444 and a few more) again and still not 100% sure how you connected this panel to the floor. It appears that the valance wraps around it on one photo. Did you wrap the boot floor around it as well? At the moment I have it positioned on a boot floor repair panel I have made (the original one was completly rotten - even the flange that the new panel is supposed to connect to) but not sure if I should make the boot repair panel go around it at the rear and then the valance connects to the new floor repair. Can I attach photos to this blog? I do not think I am making myself very clear. Before I make the final welds I have to try and repair the joint where the two halves of the wing/valance join (just below the area where the rear lights fit) on the inside of the car.The panel that wraps around the rear of the wheel arch will help but the two flanges inside are incomplete and need some repairs. I will have a look at your photos again and see if you have made any repairs here and study the floor/wing/valance photos again to see if I can understand what you have done.
Sorry for not being clear - it's difficult to describe exactly what I am repairing. Have you seen a yooutube site called 'birth of a racecar'? There is one episode where he fits the panel I am talking about.
Regards
Tony
Hi Tony,
DeleteI think you are referring to the boot floor extension panel. The best photos that show how this panel connects to the floor is between 450 and 462.
Both the floor and the extension panel have a flange that face each other. These are welded together.
The short part of the L panel does then wrap around the floor and brings together the floor and the rear valance.
I hope that helps you.
James
Hi James
DeleteThanks for your comments. Yes, I am referring to the 'boot floor extension panel' as you say. Unfortunately the flange on my floor had completely rotted away and part of the floor itself all around it. I have made a new floor panel but didn't add a flange, (made a note of where it was situated), I was going to flatten the flange on the extension panel and weld it to the new floor patch with plug welds. After looking at your photographs, the floor goes over the extension panel and the valance fits on the other side sandwiching the extension panel, yes? I think I will start again and make a new floor repair panel and maybe even add a flange to it and fix the extension panel to the new flange. I am also fitting the external repair that goes from one side to the other and attaches to the extension panel (butt welding this to the existing rear wing area) - all the parts have to come together before I start with the welder.
Thanks again - will keep you posted on progress. If you think of any other things I should be doing please let me know.
Regards
Tony
Replying as Anonymous again!
DeleteHi again James
Just a few more questions that have occurred to me since my last post to you (the posts take ages before they are published).
You repaired the valance area before you tackled the boot floor extension and boot floor itself I believe?
What product did you use to clean the gearbox and bell housing (stood in your driveway), it produced a fantastic result?
Regards
Tony
Hi Tony,
DeleteYes that's correct. But used the floor as a template so to help me with the alignment.
Just used Gunk degreaser on the gearbox. Took a while!
Hi James, I just finished reading your blog from start to finish (For future record I reached "Doors"!). It's inspired me to restore my own Midget which I was initially going to have patched up but total resto is the realistic solution. I have many of the same problems so thank you so much for posting all this and if I manage to document my experience I will let you know!
ReplyDeleteGood luck with your project! Let me know if I can help in any way.
DeleteHi again James.C
ReplyDeleteContacting you as Anonymous again.
I still refer to your project for ideas and inspiration when I get stuck on something - I usually check to see if you have encountered the same problems that I have. I have just been repairing the front of my bonnet using a similar technique to yourself, what a rave. I used two bonnets and made one reasonable one from the two. I have refitted the brake and clutch pedal box and have a large spring that needs fitting to the clutch pedal 'somewhere'. I cannot see where it fits on the pedal or the bodywork. I checked to see what you did and there doesn't seem to be a spring fitted - did you have one? It must fit somewhere because I took it off and placed it with the other clutch parts in a plastic bag!!
Look forward to hearing from you.
Regards
Tony Lane
Hi Tony,
DeleteThanks for reading my blog. Pleased it helps you with your project.
The only spring for the clutch pedal that I can remember is the one in the pedal box.
How big is it?